0 Hauler Trailers For Sale in
Tulsa, Oklahoma

Car Haulers in Tulsa

Open decks and enclosed boxes, and the choice is really about what condition the vehicle is in and what condition you need it to arrive in.

Open, 18 and 20 feet

The sensible money for a project car, an auction pickup, or a tow home. Slide-out or stand-up ramps, treated deck, tandem braked. Hundreds of pounds lighter than an enclosed hauler and considerably cheaper to buy, and it stores outside without complaint.

Enclosed, 20 to 24 feet

For anything finished. Weather stays off it, attention stays off it, and you can leave it loaded overnight without thinking about it. Heavy rear ramp, escape door, and floor-level tie-downs rather than wall-mounted ones.

Specify at order

Interior height enough to open a car door inside, extra tie-down points positioned for how you actually strap a vehicle, and a winch plate if anything is coming on that does not run. All three are cheaper built in than retrofitted, and anchor points in particular are never as good added later.

Ratings

Tandem axles with brakes on both, Dexter axles, radial tires. Bring the tow vehicle if you want the connector and controller pairing set up properly - a car on a trailer is not a load to discover a controller problem with. See the car hauler range.

Deck length by vehicle

Eighteen feet suits most cars. Twenty covers a full-size pickup or a long-wheelbase vehicle with room to strap it properly. Twenty-four is for a vehicle plus a toolbox, or two small vehicles. Measure bumper to bumper rather than trusting a model year, because trims vary more than people expect.

Ramps and clearance

Slide-out ramps store under the deck and are lighter to position. Stand-up ramps are quicker to deploy. Either way, ask about ramp length if the vehicle is low - a lowered car or one with a front splitter will catch on a short ramp regardless of how careful you are.

Tie-downs

Floor-level D-rings positioned for the wheels beat wall-mounted anchors, because strapping over the tires rather than to the suspension is what keeps a vehicle stable at speed. Ask for the anchor points to be set for how you actually strap, and add more than you think you need.

Enclosed extras worth having

An escape door, so you are not climbing out over the vehicle. Interior height enough to open a car door inside. Interior lighting. A winch plate if anything is coming on that does not run under its own power. All cheaper specified than added later.

Towing one

Tandem axles with brakes on both, Dexter axles, radial tires. A car on a trailer is a high, heavy, top-loaded weight, so load distribution matters more than usual - aim for roughly sixty percent of the weight ahead of the axles and strap it before you move.

Loading a car safely, alone

Chock the trailer before you drive on, not after. Line up outside the trailer rather than correcting halfway up a ramp. And if the car is low, load it downhill where you can - a slight decline changes the approach angle more than a longer ramp does. None of this is complicated but all of it is easier to do than to undo.

Storage

An enclosed hauler is a large object to keep somewhere. Measure your gate, your drive and your turning space before you buy twenty-four feet, because it is the most common regret on this category.

Open or enclosed, in one sentence

If the car is finished, buy enclosed; if it is a project, buy open. Almost every regret in this category comes from getting that one backwards, and it is far cheaper to get right at purchase than to correct with a second trailer.

Ratings and the truck

A loaded car hauler is close to the top of what a half-ton will do comfortably. Bring the truck and we will check the rating and set the controller against the trailer rather than leaving it on a default number.